Shore Power: Incoming power from an outside source (the electrical grid or an RV park).
Boondocking: Free camping on public lands with no incoming outside power source.
Shore Power: Incoming power from an outside source (the electrical grid or an RV park).
Boondocking: Free camping on public lands with no incoming outside power source.
If you generally connect your RV to “shore power”. Most of your electrical needs are already handled.
When “boondocking”, you are on your own to supply all your power needs. The question then becomes, “How do I power my stuff?”
For boondocking, you have three options: gas generators, portable battery-source generators, or 6V/12V batteries.
Some prefer RVing where power is supplied for your RV — often called Shore Power — that you plug into. While shore power is great because most of your power needs are taken care of, sometimes you’ll need to have power when there is no shore power, by force or by choice. Your options are battery power or generator power. If you don’t mind the noise of a generator, the need for fuel and the fumes that come with it, or the maintenance, a generator is an alternate source of power. But if you want peace and quiet, something good for you and for the environment, and that’s renewable from the sun, lithium battery power is the way to go. Learn More
A helpful hint... There is a solar generator that is safe, silent and renewable that you can find in the “Other Great Solutions ” section below called the Lion Safari ME™. Learn More
For the greatest flexibility so you can boondock sometimes and plug in other times, we recommend getting setup for boondocking and you'll then also be set for shore power. This way you'll have the freedom to enjoy your RV experience wherever the wind and your desires takes you.
When you're RVing in the great outdoors, away from shore power, you need to have a steady source of power for slide outs and to keep all your conveniences in the RV running — TV, microwave, lights, AC, heater, etc. You'll need to have the right amount of that power. And you’ll need a way to keep that source putting out power for as long as you want to boondock. Usually that means batteries, and not just any batteries. You want batteries with ample power and ones that last. You need to seriously look at Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries. They're amazing! Learn More
Many RVers also have a generator to use for selected auxiliary power that puts a heavy load or use of power, such as when you want to use the AC for extended periods. Lithium batteries can handle that too, especially if you're also using solar panels with your RV that recharge your batteries. Learn More Generators have some limitations that we'll discuss later on like noise, fuel, fumes, and maintenance.
For now, you'll need to consider what you want to power in the RV and for how long. Lithium batteries will take care of most, if not all of that. And we recommend Lithium over lead acid batteries for a host of reason we'll discuss in that section below.
Lithium batteries, like the Safari UT 1300, can provide 2 to 4 times the value of lead-acid batteries.
Lithium Iron Phosphate | Lead Acid | |
---|---|---|
Amp hours | 105 Ah | 80-105 Ah |
Depth of discharge | 100% | 50% |
Usable amp hours | 105 Ah | Up to 52 Ah |
Life cycles | 3,500+ | 500-1000 |
Lifespan | 10-30 years | 2-4 years |
Maintenance | None | Periodic |
Weight | 23 lbs | 45-120 lbs |
Cost | $999 | $250-550 |
Cost per life cycle | $0.29 | $0.50-$1.10 |
Depth of discharge relates to the amount of the stored power can be used, or “discharged”, from a battery.
Discharging lead-acid batteries below a 50% charge increases a chemical reaction called “sulfation” and can cause irreversible damage. Because of this, lead-acid batteries should never use more than half of its rated capacity, or their lifespan will be reduced.
Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries do not have this same chemical reaction. Therefore, you can discharge 100% of the stored energy, giving you twice the amp-hours you would get out of the same sized lead-acid battery.
With a 100% depth of discharge, you can camp twice as long with the same amount of batteries. Don’t be limited in your outdoor activities with inferior battery technology.
Not all lithium batteries are the same. So, which one is best? Check out the Lion Safari UT 1300 lithium iron phosphate battery. It has some critical advantages over the rest:
You don't want to worry about how long the battery is going to last before you have to replace it. Mostly lithium batteries have a limited warranty of 8-10 years. The Safari UT 1300 has a lifetime warranty. It's the last battery you'll have to buy. Yup, a lifetime warranty.
The Safari UT 1300 has 105Ah of stored energy, which is more than other lithium batteries and it can output 150A continuously and over a 900A peak. Others have 100Ah and only 100A of continuous output.
When you have to move a battery or you're needing a lighter load in your RV, weight matters. The Safari UT 1300 only weighs 23 lbs compared to 30+ lbs of other lithium brands.
Batteries come in "Group Size" which is basically how big the outer casing is. The Safari UT 1300 is the standard size (24), which is also smaller than other lithium brands. Others are 27 or 31 sizes so you might not be able to fit them into the space you want to.
An advanced smart Battery Management System (BMS) manages and protects the Safari UT 1300 battery. As part of that, it has a light indicator and reset button on the top so you can see how much energy is in it and has the flexibility to easily reset itself. Other lithium batteries don't.
You can not overcharge your Lion battery. The Smart BMS is like a battery guard, it protects and regulates the battery from over charging.
Add as many solar panels, charge controlers, battery warmers, etc as needed. Save up to 24%.
I've been using lead acid batteries in my trailer but it's time to upgrade to lithium. I chose Lion's battery and love them!
I show you how I changed the batteries and it's made a big difference.
This video show the step by step process of how typical RV set up are using our UT 1300 batteries.
You can DIY or have a professional assist you. Here are some basics:
Most RVs will charge your batteries from the engine’s alternator. If you have this setup, you need to have a DC-to-DC adapter (not sold by Lion Energy) to prevent backflow. Lion Energy recommends a professional installation for this.
Great for off grid living for van life, camper vans, RV's, truck campers, or your home! This video shows you exactly how long the UT1300 last in a real life senerio.
Lithium batteries charge up to a higher voltage than lead-acid batteries. While lead acid charges up to 13.6V, lithium will charge to 14.6V (13.9-14.6V is considered “full”).
If your charge controller is not programmable or does not have a “Lithium” or “Deep Cycle” setting, you may only be able to charge your new lithium battery to 80% of capacity.
While you can use a standard charge controller, Lion Energy recommends a programmable or lithium-specific charger to get the most out of your batteries.
Besides the basics, there are several other great solutions you may want to have with you on your RV adventures. These products can make not only RVing more enjoyable, but they can also be used when you’re not RVing — around the house, the yard, in outbuildings, for everyday use or during emergencies. Check them out.
Reminder: As a reminder, the Safari is the safe, silent, and renewable solar generator we mentioned above. You can even plug in your RV to it and it becomes a “Shore Power” connection with its 3,000W of continuous output. It's expandable with the XP or expansion pack, and has optional solar panels too. It’s amazing!